Muslining, muslining, more muslining

What I did today….

Allegedly I am the size of this pattern out of the envelope, especially since all those pushups took two cup sizes off.  (Priorities, my body doesn’t have them).

But no, not so much.  I mean, I guess it fits …. if RTW is your ideal of “fit”.  It goes ’round me okay.

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I did need an FBA.  Courtesy a pattern I have from Sandra Betzina… the best way of changing a princess seam for FBA – slash and spread.  (You continue the slash horizontally through the entire front piece).   I also needed a full tummy adjustment, and a full rear-end adjustments.  Slash, spread.

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Then I transferred my changes to the pattern.  Made another muslin (the picture to which was too similar to bother posting).  I took my normal 1″ out of the small of the back, made the upper chest a smidgen smaller, and I fixed the armscye.  Note how in the pic above, I have mad fabric over my upper arm and the front armhole/lower armhole are gaping.  This makes for bad fit.  Fixed it.

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Made a fresh muslin – ran out of sheeting, so had to use some fabric I didn’t have a plan for any more.  Fit nailed.  (Mind you, this is quilting cotton, which doesn’t move, drape, or stretch – on soft linen this will be substantially more interesting).  Took a bit more out of the upper sleeve… and I’ll be cutting real fabric tomorrow.

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Things to look for when fitting:  Your seam lines should be vertical from your armpit down – if they’re pulling one way or the other, something is off.  Pull lines, folds, obviously.  But verticality and matching seams are often overlooked, mostly because we’re all used to RTW where the object is to just get the garment wrapped ’round at all.

And just cut into that old sheet you’re using and mess with it until you’re happy!

… Hope this was interesting/useful to someone!

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